How to Move the Toilet When There Is No Settling Tank

When there is no settling tank in the toilet, the toilet can be moved or the drainage layout can be adjusted through methods such as same-floor drainage renovation, elevated floor with架空层 (elevated floor with an empty space underneath), wall-mounted toilet installation, partial floor elevation, or pipe relocation in the downstairs area. The specific plan should be selected based on on-site conditions.

1. Same-Floor Drainage Renovation Without a Settling Tank

Convert the original vertical pipes to horizontal ones and use flat pipes (e.g., 110mm×50mm specifications) to reduce the height of floor elevation, usually requiring only a 3-5 cm lift. During construction, remove the original floor down to the slab level, relay the horizontal pipes, and control the slope (≥1%) to ensure smooth drainage. The new waterproof layer should cover the floor and the base of the walls (height ≥30 cm). After completion, conduct a water storage test for more than 24 hours to check for leaks before proceeding with further construction. This plan is suitable for scenarios where the position of the main drainage pipe can be adjusted, but care should be taken to avoid damaging the slab structure.

2. Elevated Floor with an Empty Space Underneath for Sewage Disposal

Use lightweight materials (such as expanded clay or cement foam boards) to elevate the floor, creating an empty space underneath (height approximately 15-20 cm). Reserve a drainage slope (≥2%) and set up inspection ports (diameter ≥15 cm) for easy maintenance later. After laying the drainage pipes in the empty space, level the surface with cement mortar and apply waterproofing. When tiling the final surface, simultaneously elevate the threshold (height ≥2 cm) to prevent water overflow. This plan can reduce the load on the slab, but ensure the density of the filling material to avoid settlement and pipe deformation.

3. Installation of a Wall-Mounted Toilet

Convert a floor-mounted toilet to a wall-mounted one by laying drainage pipes through the wall interior or by cutting grooves in the wall (depth ≥10 cm) and connecting them to the original main drainage pipe. The gap behind the toilet should be covered with a custom cabinet or decorative panel, and a trap (water seal height ≥5 cm) should be installed to block odors. This plan can reduce the floor elevation height (only requiring 5-8 cm), but confirm that the wall is non-load-bearing and apply waterproofing after cutting the grooves.

4. Partial Floor Elevation

Build a platform about 18-20 cm high to hide the drainage pipes, suitable for scenarios where a squat toilet is to be installed. Reserve a drainage slope (≥1.5%) inside the platform and use concrete pouring to ensure structural stability. After construction, conduct a 48-hour closed-water test to verify the reliability of the waterproof layer (water level height ≥2 cm). This plan is suitable for larger bathrooms but will occupy some floor height.

5. Pipe Relocation in the Downstairs Area (Requires Coordination)

If the downstairs occupant agrees, cut the slab and relay PVC-U pipes to move the drainage pipes into the ceiling of the downstairs area. During construction, locate the position of the original main drainage pipe, relay the pipes, and secure them. After completion, restore the slab and conduct a 48-hour closed-water test. This plan can completely solve the limitations of same-floor drainage but requires coordination among multiple parties and may involve property approval.

Precautions:

• Obtain consent from the property management and the downstairs owner before renovation to avoid unauthorized alterations to the public main drainage pipe.
• Conduct a pressure test (0.6 MPa for 30 minutes) after pipe renovation to check for leaks.
• Avoid using overly heavy filling materials such as red bricks to reduce the load on the slab.