How to Modify a Mobile Toilet into a Toilet

Modifying a mobile toilet into a toilet requires selecting a plan based on the type of bathroom. Here are common methods and steps:

I. Modification Plan for Non-sunken Bathrooms

For non-sunken bathrooms (where the floor is 2-10 centimeters lower than other areas), adjusting the drainage slope is crucial. It is necessary to avoid the risks of raising the floor or causing blockages with traditional offset connectors. The following two methods are recommended:

1. Flat Shift Using Special Toilet Downspout扁管 (Flat Pipes)

   • Slot Cutting and Positioning: Mark a straight line from the original toilet's drainage outlet to the new location. Use a cutting machine to cut along the marked line (the depth should be cleared to the cement base layer) and remove the debris from the slot.
   • Pipe Connection: Cut the special PVC flat pipe according to the modification distance and connect the pipes with PVC glue to ensure a sealed joint. The thin thickness of the flat pipe can reduce the extent to which the floor needs to be raised.
   • Slope Control: When laying the flat pipe, reserve a slope of 1%-3% (e.g., a drop of 1-3 centimeters over a length of 1 meter) to prevent sewage backflow.

2. Floor Raising Method

   • Foundation Construction: Use red bricks or concrete to construct a base about 180 millimeters high (the specific height should be calculated in combination with the drainage slope). Reserve a channel for the drainage pipe inside the base.
   • Slope Adjustment: Lay cement mortar on the surface of the base to form a sloped surface from the toilet's drainage outlet to the main drainage pipe, ensuring smooth drainage.
   • Floor Repair: After the base is completed, cover the surface with tiles or waterproof materials to maintain a consistent style with the original floor.

II. General Steps for Converting a Squat Toilet to a Sit-down Toilet

These steps are applicable to the modification of squat toilets in all types of bathrooms, with a focus on addressing the extension of the drainage pipe and space fixation:

1. Removal and Drainage Pipe Extension

   • Remove the squat toilet and surrounding tiles, and clean the base layer to expose the original drainage pipe.
   • Extend the drainage pipe to the new toilet location using PVC pipes. Seal the joints with hot melting or glue to prevent leakage.

2. Red Brick Fixation and Grouting

   • Build red bricks along the edge of the new toilet base (about 10-15 centimeters high) to reduce the space occupied by the toilet.
   • Fill the gaps between the red bricks and the original floor and walls with fine sand to enhance stability.

3. Floor Repair and Installation

   • Smooth out the exterior of the red bricks and the floor with cement mortar, and retile the floor to ensure a flat surface.
   • When installing the toilet, apply glass glue or reinforce with 502 glue at the joints to prevent wobbling. If a self-made water tank (e.g., modified from a paint bucket) is needed, test the flushing effect by hanging it on the wall to ensure that the water level and pressure meet the standards.

III. Precautions

• Limitations of Offset Connectors: Traditional offset connectors are only suitable for short-distance shifts of 10-30 centimeters. Long-distance shifts are prone to blockages. For non-sunken bathrooms, special flat pipes are preferred.
• Flushing Test: After the modification is completed, flush multiple times to check for water accumulation at the elbows and whether the drainage is smooth, to avoid blockages caused by excessive water flow resistance.
• Waterproofing Treatment: All slotted and masonry areas should be coated with waterproof paint to prevent leakage from affecting the downstairs or walls.