How to Move the Toilet Drain Pipe

Moving the toilet drain pipe can be achieved by altering the original pipe position, using a pipe shifter, or combining tool operations, depending on the shifting distance, floor structure, and drainage type.

I. Altering the Original Toilet Drain Pipe Position (Suitable for Long-Distance or Cross-Room Shifting)

1. Positioning and Hole Drilling

   • Mark the new position after confirmation and observe whether it can be connected to the drainage riser. If it needs to pass through the floor slab, consult with the downstairs resident as it involves damaging the floor slab structure.
   • Drill a hole in the floor (usually requires damaging the reinforcement; not recommended unless necessary). The hole size should be one size larger than the outer diameter of the drainage pipe (e.g., a 120mm hole for an 110mm pipe) to ensure installation space.

2. Pipe Disassembly and Installation

   • Disassemble the original drainage pipe (focus on the tee joint of the drainage riser) and install a new pipe (commonly PVC pipe). Use clamps to connect and apply sealant to ensure tight joints.
   • If it is a cast-iron pipe, use clamps to secure the joints and apply sealant to prevent leakage.

3. Backfilling and Waterproofing

   • After backfilling the hole, pour concrete. After it dries, apply a polymer cement mortar waterproof coating (thickness ≥ 1.5mm), focusing on the area around the pipe.
   • Conduct a 48-hour closed-water test before laying floor tiles to observe whether there is leakage in the downstairs ceiling.

II. Using a Toilet Pipe Shifter (Suitable for Short-Distance Shifting)

1. Applicable Scenarios

   • When the shifting distance is ≤ 40 centimeters, prioritize using a special flat pipe shifter or round pipe to avoid poor drainage caused by an excessively long pipe.

2. Construction Points

   • Slope Control: Maintain a slope of 1%-2% (e.g., raise a 1-meter pipe by 1-2 centimeters) to use gravity to accelerate drainage and prevent blockages.
   • Reduce Elbows: The more elbows there are, the greater the drainage resistance. It is recommended to use a straight pipe for connection directly.

3. Special Case Handling

   • If the shifting distance exceeds 40 centimeters, raise the floor by 20 centimeters and relay the pipe, ensuring that the slope of the new pipe meets the standard.

III. Other Operation Details (Auxiliary Construction)

1. Tool Preparation

   • When cutting the sewage pipe, use a sealing ring. After measuring the length, evenly apply PVC glue to ensure a firm joint.
   • Prepare accessories such as special gaskets for 110 pipes and 110 elbows for upper drainage. In narrow spaces, a multi-functional machine with a sawing function can be used for operation.

2. Drainage Type Adaptation

   • Same-Floor Drainage: It can be self-renovated, but ensure the integrity of the waterproof layer.
   • Inter-Floor Drainage: It requires the consent of the property management and neighbors as it involves damaging the downstairs ceiling.

Key Tips: Before construction, confirm the floor slab type (cast-in-place or prefabricated) and the drainage pipe material (PVC or cast iron), and strictly comply with the property management regulations. If there are doubts about structural safety, it is recommended to entrust a professional plumber for the operation.