How to Move the Floor Drain in the Toilet

Moving the floor drain in the toilet requires strict adherence to construction specifications, with core steps including pre-relocation checks, standard construction, and acceptance and maintenance. The specific operations are as follows:

I. Three Key Checks Before Relocation

1. Confirm the Material of the Original Sewer Pipe
   Old houses (before the 1990s) mostly have cast iron pipes, which are prone to corrosion and have poor joint sealing. The relocation distance must not exceed 30 cm. After 2000, commercial housing generally uses PVC pipes, which can be relocated up to 1 meter. If the pipe material is unknown, it needs to be confirmed through the property management or professionals to avoid forced relocation causing pipe breakage.

2. Measure the Position and Direction of the Main Sewer Pipe
   Relocation should avoid the joints of the main sewer pipe (especially tees and elbows), and relocation in the reverse slope direction is prohibited (i.e., the end of the pipe is lower than the main sewer pipe), otherwise it will cause drainage backflow. This can be judged by observing the pipe layout or using a level.

3. Evaluate the Available Space for Raising the Floor
   Relocation requires laying new pipes, and the floor needs to be raised by at least 3 cm (it can be relaxed to 1-2 cm for sunken toilets). If the ceiling height is insufficient, consider using thin-set tile laying or ultra-thin floor drains to reduce the occupied space.

II. Standard Construction Process and Core Parameters

1. Pipe Selection and Slope Control

   • When the relocation distance is ≤ 30 cm, select a national standard 50 pipe (outer diameter 50 mm); when it is > 30 cm, use a 75 pipe (outer diameter 75 mm), with a pipe wall thickness not less than 3 mm.
   • The pipe slope should be reserved at 3‰ - 5‰ (i.e., raise 3-5 mm per meter). A slope that is too small is prone to water accumulation, and a slope that is too large will affect the floor flatness.

2. Joint Sealing and Leak Prevention Treatment
   All pipe joints need triple sealing: first tighten with a rubber ring, then apply waterproof glue, and finally wrap 2 turns of waterproof tape. If using glue to connect PVC pipes, ensure that the joints are dry and free of oil stains, and let it stand for 24 hours after application before turning on the water.

3. Relocation Tools and Detailed Operations
   Using a 50 relocation round flat elbow can simplify the construction: insert the lower elbow directly into the original pipe, cut a flat pipe of an appropriate length in the middle to connect the upper elbow, and the floor drain opening can be relocated to the new position. After relocation, the upper opening can be connected with a pipe and raised, and fixed with PVC glue.

III. Acceptance and Post-Maintenance Points

1. Water Pouring Test
   After construction is completed, pour a bucket of water (about 10 L) into the floor drain, observe whether the drainage speed is smooth, and check whether the joints leak after 15 minutes. If the drainage is slow or there is leakage, the slope or joint sealing needs to be readjusted.

2. Triple Water Closure Tests
   Conduct 24-hour water closure tests respectively after pipe construction is completed, waterproof layer is completed, and tiles are laid, focusing on checking whether there is leakage around the floor drain, pipe joints, and the ceiling of the lower floor. In northern regions, it is also necessary to wrap insulation cotton around the pipes to prevent condensation and water leakage.

Tip: Floor drain relocation involves concealed work. It is recommended to be carried out by professional plumbers to avoid rework or water leakage risks due to improper construction.